*For more information on golf in Ireland visit Ireland.com/golf
A Finn McCool-sized mural of a beaming Shane Lowry cradling the Claret Jug will welcome an estimated 250,000 visitors to the seaside town of Portrush for Open Championship week in July 2025.
It is a cheerful reminder, should anyone need it, that the popular Irishman was triumphant the last time golf’s oldest major came to the Antrim coast in 2019. The 148th Open was the largest sporting event held in Northern Ireland, generating £100m of economic benefit to the area on the back of record ticket sales for a Championship held outside of St Andrews. But Covid crippled the Causeway Coast’s plans to capitalise. There is a desire to not miss out again. And lessons have been learned, both by Championship organisers the R&A, and the local tourism board.
While the fans had a ball, roaring Lowry to victory despite the wind and rain that battered the Dunluce Links, there were murmurings of discontent in the town. A no re-admission policy meant spectators were trapped on the course, with businesses feeling they were missing out on vital trade. The R&A listened and fans will be free to come and go.
A local tourism study had highlighted a shortage of four and five-star hotels in the area. The elegant Elephant Rock and luxurious Dunluce Lodge are among those redressing the balance and offering the more upmarket accommodation that some tourists crave. Marry that with a vibrant town, world-class tourism and golfing options galore, and you have the ingredients for a fun-packed break. I was contemplating all this while munching on a slab of award-winning Mountain Dart Sperrin Blue cheese, topped with a generous helping of viscous Armagh Craft Cider Drizzle, while on an idyllic cruise down the River Bann.
It was day two of a packed three-day itinerary. Day one had been spent wandering around the simply superb Titanic museum. Even if the history of boat-building in Belfast is not your bag you won’t fail to be blown away by the poignancy of the presentation and detail into the unsinkable ship’s doomed voyage. It was followed by a culinary evening, baking traditional Guinness soda bread to soak up a thick and creamy fish chowder, all made under the watchful eye of award-winning chef Niall McKenna at his Waterman Cookery School in the heart of the city.
If you don’t fancy the do-it-yourself approach, the passionate McKenna has all bases covered, from a traditional restaurant, through to private dining and event spaces for more informal gatherings. Day two dawned to bright skies and a view from my hotel window of Templepatrick’s 18th green. The Kingfisher Country Estate, on the outskirts of the Northern Irish capital, is undergoing a multi-million pound investment, with the plan “to mimic Gleneagles” in Scotland. A total of 68 new suites, log cabins, shepherd’s huts and glamping pods have all been approved for construction. The course too has undergone some major renovations in recent years, and if parkland courses are your thing, you’ll love it.
But for me, far better options lie an hour to the north. It was unseasonably warm, with barely a cloud in the October sky, as we boarded the beautifully restored MV Kingfisher for a two-hour ‘Spirit of the Bann’ boat trip. Three boutique business have come together to offer a one-stop shop, highlighting the best local food and drink, while showing off the nature that calls Northern Ireland’s longest river its home.
White River Charters provides the transport and wildlife knowledge, while Causeway Coast Foodie Tours supplies the scran and Dunluce Distillery the drink. “Naturally, we get a lot of golfers,” says Fiona of White River Charters. “And we find a lot of people come on this trip while their partners are off playing golf. You can’t play golf all day every day…” her words trail off as the boat gently bobs between the links courses of Castlerock on our left and Portstewart on our right. Castlerock grabs my attention and I strain to pick out any redeeming feature that may help my forthcoming round. The course is well shielded from prying eyes, it will have to wait.
Simon from the distillery is handing round glasses of The Shore Born Portballintrae Gin to accompany the bewildering array of cheeses, which, alongside award-winning charcuterie from Corndale Farm, pair superbly with Ditty’s Irish oatcakes.
The afternoon gives way to early evening as we head back to the river port of Coleraine and rugs are handed round to ward off the nip in the air. There is also a nip in my glass as Wendy’s final tasting sensation is delivered. A wee dram of 18-year-old Bushmills from the world’s oldest whiskey distillery. Marvellous. The following morning was back to golf at Castlerock’s magnificent Mussenden Course. A watery sunshine bathed the first fairway as tee shots were fired down from the elevated tee. Founded in 1901, the 18-hole layout, designed by North Berwick professional Ben Sayers in 1908 has been further tinkered with by Harry Colt, who had been in the area working on Royal Portrush in the late 1920s, and Martin Hawtree in 2017.
And while its more illustrious neighbour will be the main course for many, Castlerock deserves to be more than just the hors d’oeuvres. You need to make your score early with two relatively benign par-five holes on the opening stretch that takes you to the far end of the course and in sight of the Bann. What follows is a strong but wonderful run of six holes around the turn that really demands full focus, given it features numbers one to four on the stroke index. Thick unyielding rough shrinks already narrow fairways on the seventh and eighth holes, while the 200-yard par-three ninth does not offer the respite its mark as the 17th easiest hole might indicate.
The 10th is carved into the side of a hill, kicking everything left towards trouble. Hope of taking advantage of the par-five 11th is extinguished by playing into a strengthening breeze, although that helps as you turn to tackle the 12th, the longest par-four on the course.
The Instagram-friendly par-five 17th, which overlooks the entire course, is the standout hole of the closing stretch, although hidden bunkers make the tee shot something of a lottery for first timers. The last curls round a huge dune you’ll do well to avoid, and then plays uphill to a plateau green in the shadow of the clubhouse. There was little time to dissect the round because the legend of Finn McCool at an Unesco World Heritage Site up the road needed exploring. While fans of science might lean towards the Giant’s Causeway being a geological wonder of 40,000 interlocking basalt columns caused by intense volcanic activity, I prefer the story of the mighty giant and hero of Irish myth, who also had a magic thumb. Finn was simply creating a path to Scotland to avoid getting his feet wet. The same tales also suggest that he ripped up a chunk of land and hurled it at a fleeing enemy, thus creating the Isle of Man in the Irish Sea and the UK’s largest lake, Lough Neagh, in one easy afternoon.
The tall tales continued long into the night at Portrush’s ever lively Harbour Inn, although the sensible among our party left for their Elephant Rock beds well before closing time, conscious of the following morning’s tee-time at Royal Portrush that would cap an exquisite few days in this most stunning of settings.
*Peter Scrivener was a guest of Tourism Ireland.
The Open 2025 Portrush: the context
The Open Championship is set to return to Royal Portrush Golf Club for its 153rd edition, taking place from July 13–20, 2025. Royal Portrush, renowned for its challenging Dunluce Links course and stunning coastal scenery, is a favorite among players and fans. Preparations are underway to welcome thousands of spectators and showcase Northern Ireland’s rich golfing heritage. For information about tickets visit the official Open Championship website at TheOpen.com.
The Open 2025 Portrush: key facts
-Historic Venue: Royal Portrush first hosted The Open in 1951 and again in 2019, making it a key part of the tournament’s legacy.
-Economic Impact: The 2019 event generated over £100 million for the Northern Ireland economy, highlighting the significance of its return.
-Stunning Scenery: The course is set against the dramatic backdrop of the County Antrim coastline, near iconic landmarks like the Giant’s Causeway.
-Record Attendance: The 2019 Open at Portrush attracted a record-breaking 237,750 spectators, showcasing its global appeal
-Accessibility: Portrush is well-connected by road and rail, making it easy for visitors to explore nearby attractions such as Dunluce Castle.
-Golfing Tradition: The region boasts other world-class golf courses, including Portstewart and Castlerock, which add to its appeal for golf enthusiasts. All of these details mean The Open 2025 Portrush come with a genuine cultural, scenic, and economic significance for the island of Ireland.
