It’s not until you climb the final few feet up to the elevated 1st tee at Portstewart Golf Club that the majesty of the setting unveils itself.
The sweeping Strand beach and Atlantic Ocean out to your right, intriguing glimpses of uncharted golfing territory to your left and a simply sensational opener to grab your attention down the middle. Just take an extra moment to drink it all in. It’s arguably one of the UK’s finest opening holes. The 427-yard dogleg right hugs towering dunes on the inside with the fairway narrowing into a relatively flat green.
Steady yourself for the most satisfying of swipes as your ball soars high into the sky before plummeting 60, 70 feet below you to the fairway. That was the dream. The reality was a slight push, made worse by a stiff breeze, into the base of a dune. C’est la vie. And so we were away for perhaps nine of the most entertaining holes I’ve played in a long time, with blind shots, elevation changes and no consecutive holes playing in the same direction.
The 2nd and 3rd of the Strand Course, on Northern Ireland’s Causeway Coast, play through a delightful complex of dunes that isolate you from the rest of the world before the fourth and fifth open up and encourage a freer swing off the tee. The 6th is the shortest but toughest of the par-3s, playing to a volcano green where the wind can play havoc and anything short, left or long leaves a nasty hack up to the putting surface. The 7th plays uphill to a tight green while the sharp dogleg left 8th rewards bravery off the tee and culminates in a green with barely a flat spot on it. And the front nine finishes with a tough uphill par-4.
Local man Des Griffin is to thank for the routing. He plotted his way through the dunes after the club bought the land in the 1980s, adding seven new holes to a course originally laid out in 1922 by legendary architect and twice winner of the Open Championship Willie Park Jr. While the vista on the back nine is not quite as dramatic, the holes are no less challenging as the course heads down to the River Bann, with the Donegal Mountains looming on the horizon, before climbing back to the clubhouse for a fine finishing trio, with a blind second to the 16th green, a plateau finale to the 17th and a well-bunkered closer.
Portstewart is only three miles from Royal Portrush, the home of the 2025 Open Championship, and offers 36 other holes across the less demanding Old Course and Riverside layouts. But the Strand was the undoubted jewel of a trip to Derry that took me around the city’s parkland course and nearby Strabane, before venturing into the Republic of Ireland for a few holes at the delightful Greencastle.
The comfortable and serene Bishop’s Gate Hotel was my base, in the heart of the only completely intact walled city in Ireland. The mile-long wander round the 400-year old walls was an easy pre-dinner stroll, while the evenings are likely to be lively given the famed Paeder O’Donnell’s bar was bouncing on a Monday evening to the sound of traditional Irish music.
The Derry golf course is an easy escape from the city and is a reasonably routine parkland layout with tree-lined holes routed across the side of a hill offering superb views down over the River Foyle. Strabane is of similar standard, set in the foothills of the Sperrin Mountains. The rolling terrain really comes to life in the middle third of the round with the River Mourne playing its part, before the holes wind back up the hill towards the clubhouse.
Greencastle was more suited to my eye, though. The quirky links holes that hug the bank of Lough Foyle on the Inishowen Peninsula are as picturesque as they come. Several necessitate shots over beaches that are in play, while the 12th requires a precise drive over an inlet and a blind second that has a lighthouse as the aim point. It’s well worth a visit.
I was expertly guided round by a long-time Greencastle member who hailed from Derry, a city that is now thriving after being divided by the ‘Troubles’ – a 30-year conflict between unionists and republicans over the status of Northern Ireland that ended in 1998. Tony, who said he abhorred the violence, was happy to give me a history lesson. He was a childhood friend of Martin McGuinness – who would go on to become a prominent member of the IRA and eventually the ‘Good Friday Agreement’ in the peace process.
They grew up playing on the streets in the catholic Bogside – the scene of the 1972 ‘Bloody Sunday’ massacre when British soldiers killed 14 unarmed civilians during a protest march. A series of murals, painted on houses, serve as poignant memorials to the struggles, while inside the city’s walls, the court house remains scarred with evidence of the gunfire and bombing. A 235m peace bridge across the River Foyle was erected in 2011 to connect the predominately-Protestant east bank of the city to the mostly-Catholic west in time for Derry’s stint as the inaugural UK City of Culture in 2013.
However, the name of the city is still in dispute. Londonderry is its legal name – having been appointed in the early 17th century by royal decree under James I when Ireland was under colonial rule – and is still favoured by unionists. Nationalists prefer Derry – its original name.
What is not up for dispute is that it is a fascinating base with an incredible history that will enrich any golfing trip to this part of the world.
*Peter Scrivener was a guest of Visit Derry and stayed at the Bishop’s Gate Hotel. For more information go to VisitDerry.com
Frequently Asked Questions: Golf in Derry & Northwest Ireland
What are the best golf courses near Derry, Northern Ireland?
Some of the best golf courses within easy reach of Derry include Portstewart Golf Club, known for its stunning links and the championship Strand Course, Greencastle Golf Club, a hidden gem across Lough Foyle in Donegal, City of Derry Golf Club, a scenic parkland layout, and Strabane Golf Club, a welcoming inland course with panoramic views.
Is Portstewart Golf Club worth playing?
Absolutely. Portstewart Golf Club is one of Northern Ireland’s premier links venues. Its Strand Course is ranked among the best in Ireland, offering dramatic dunes, ocean views, and a layout that has hosted the Irish Open.
Can I play all four courses in one weekend golf trip?
Yes. With smart planning, you can comfortably play Portstewart, Greencastle, City of Derry, and Strabane in a long weekend. The courses are all within a short drive of Derry, making the city a perfect base for a 3- to 4-day golf trip.
Are these golf clubs open to visitors?
Yes, all four clubs — Portstewart, Greencastle, City of Derry, and Strabane — welcome visitors. It’s always best to book tee times in advance, especially at Portstewart which can get busy during peak season.
How much does it cost to play golf around Derry?
Green fees vary, but you can expect:
- Portstewart: £120–£150 in peak season
- Greencastle: ~€40–€60
- City of Derry: ~£30–£50
- Strabane: ~£25–£40
This makes Derry one of the best-value golf regions in Ireland, especially when compared to the more expensive southwest.
Where should I stay on a Derry golf trip?
Staying in Derry city centre provides easy access to all four courses. We stayed at the excellent Bishop’s Gate Hotel.
When is the best time to golf in Derry?
The best months for golf in Derry are April to September, when the weather is most favourable, and the courses are in peak condition but you can play all year round. Early autumn (September) often combines good weather with fewer crowds.
Can I combine golf in Derry with other activities?
Yes — Derry offers rich culture, history, and scenic attractions. You can explore the Derry Walls, Museum of Free Derry, or take a drive along the Causeway Coastal Route. It’s an ideal destination for golfers and non-golfers alike.
STRABANE GOLF CLUB SCORECARD
GREENCASTLE GOLF CLUB SCORECARD
PORTSTEWART GOLF CLUB SCORECARD
